Mark Squires reforça na publicação de junho 2023, o que tinha já havia referido no report de junho 2022:
This has become one of the most interesting producers in Douro, owned by the sister-brother team of Joana and Antonio Maçanita. For all of that, it is a little quirky. They've searched out old vines and grapes.
Destaque para os Letra F, um Douro incrível que abraçamos com orgulho! Um projeto onde exploramos vinhas antigas de outros tempos!
O relatório completo está disponível em www.robertparker.com
/>
(...) there is some intense flavor along the lines of sour cherries. The rest is even more impressive. It is silky and sensual, perfectly balanced and very precise. As elegant as it is, it seems to coat the palate and take it over. This is a perfect food wine with old-school finesse. It is not quite ready. Another year or two can make it more expressive, even if is approachable now. The tannins are not hard, but that's not the only reason to cellar wines. I played with this for a couple of hours. The last taste was better than any other. (...)
- Mark Squires
/>
(...) Almost delicate in mouthfeel, this is still persistent, and it coats the palate and lingers beautifully. Is it the best white in this report? Maybe.But for wines without a track record, that is going to be a final decision made only when they all have a few years on them. Still, this is beautiful, gripping, elegant and bright. It seems so refined, so graceful that the grip on the finish almost sneaks up on you. Like most of its siblings, it is a food wine, not a fruity concoction. It's dry, understated and crisp (...)
- Mark Squires
/>
(...) This tends to show some wood a little more than some of the others, but the presentation also makes it a little more traditional (...) Ultimately, this is beautiful but still unevolved. It could use a little time to pull itself together a bit better. It seems likely to age well, so there is no rush. It needs to develop a little over the next couple of years to justify my enthusiasm, but this new brand suddenly vaulted near the top of my list in the winery's white submissions. It seems likely to improve, but given the lack of a track record and its relative youth, let's be a little conservative right now. (...)
- Mark Squires
/>
(...) It's a beautiful wine, fresh, tense and lingering on the finish with a hint of dried pears. It has just enough depth. It is very precise and focused. Like most of its siblings, it definitely needs a food pairing to show its best, but this will likely do better on its own than some of the others. It is impeccably balanced. It should hold for the rest of the decade, probably more. More importantly, it should be able to develop and improve a bit over the next couple of years. (...) There is no track record, of course, so let's be a little conservative. Still, I wound up liking this a lot as it aired and warmed. (...)
- Mark Squires
Situadas na região menos prestigiosa da classificação do Douro, categoria Letra F, estas vinhas eram conhecidas pela produção daquilo a que localmente chamavam "vinho de consumo", por oposição ao vinho tratado, que se destinava a ser comercializado.
As vinhas velhas, às vezes com mais de 30 castas brancas e tintas encontram-se no limite da classificação dos vinhos do Douro, na zona de transição entre formações rochosas de xisto e granito, em Carlão. As uvas de encepamento ancestral têm um carácter muito próprio, através de uma viticultura não interventiva, sem herbicidas e segundo as regras de produção biológica.
/>
(...) this is riper and deeper, while still seeming to project finesse. It's bright and lively with a deliciously juicy finish. It doesn't quite have that quality of dancing over the tongue, like the As Olgas, but it comes closer to a typical Douro red in this vintage. (...) This Os Canivéis does tend to darker flavors, plums and darker red fruits. There is a real backbone for support, and it probably needs a year or two of cellaring for best results, even though the tannins are not hard. It is overall beautifully balanced and elegant in its own right. (...)
- Mark Squires
/>
(...) Another stony and earthy white without much fruitiness, this is nonetheless a step up over a similar wine in this report that is also in a roughly reasonable price category, the Os Canivéis. This seems fuller in terms of mouthfeel, the finish is longer and this occasionally has some personality to go with its perky structure and brooding demeanor. This should be a great wine at the table for various seafood pairings. It should hold well for the rest of the decade, maybe more, but I'd expect it to be at its best now and in the first few years. (...)
- Mark Squires
/>
(...) Darker in flavors, this too tends a little more to plums, rhubarb and beef. I've seen that before here. It is a bit distinctive. As with most of these Letra F wines, it is all about the elegance and finesse. It's neither fruity nor jammy in style. There is a beautifully textured finish, though, and a sensual feel. If it sometimes seems delicate, it is never exactly thin. (...) It still has a chance to improve. The tannins are not hard, though, so you can drink this today. (...)
- Mark Squires
Artigos relacionados
